Travels with Rhea

The route

The trip so far

17nights in the tent
19under a roof
6,907miles driven
20states
13parks Rhea could hike

Finished days only: tonight counts tomorrow. A night the plan doesn't pin down as tent or roof is left out.

85 days, about 13,200 miles, three legs. The first leg runs on fixed dates; after Seattle the plan stretches, and a few parks are still maybes.

Days ahead show where we expect to be and when. Campgrounds appear once the night is over. Finished days can be driven again: drive it yourself.

TWR1 East & North · Long Island's East End NY to Seattle WA · about 5,100 mi
DayWhenWhereMiNight
1Thu Oct 1Oyster Bay, NY to Stowe, VT
via NY 106, I 495 West, Long Island Expressway, Hutchinson River Parkway · drive it
346Friends' driveway, Stowe (rooftop tent)Read
2Fri Oct 2Stowe, VT to White Mountains, NH
via Kancamagus Highway (NH-112), VT-108 through Smugglers' Notch · drive it
147Dolly Copp CG, WMNFRead
3Sat Oct 3White Mountains, NH to Acadia, ME
via US-2 across western Maine · drive it
215Blackwoods CG, Acadia (NPS)Read
4Sun Oct 4Acadia, ME to Acadia, ME
via ME 3, ME 198, Main Street · drive it
71Seawall CG, Acadia (NPS)Read
5Mon Oct 5Acadia, ME to home
via Main Street, ME 3, US 1, I 395 West
421homeRead
6Tue Oct 6home to homehomeDay page
7Wed Oct 7home to homehomeDay page
8Thu Oct 8home to homehomeDay page
9Fri Oct 9home to homehomeDay page
10Sat Oct 10home to homehomeDay page
11Sun Oct 11home to homehomeDay page
12Mon Oct 12Long Island's East End to Finger Lakes, NY
via NY 27, NY 27 West, CR 111, Captain Daniel Roe Highway · drive it
331Robert H. Treman SP, IthacaRead
13Tue Oct 13Finger Lakes, NY to Niagara, NY
via NY-89 up the west shore of Cayuga Lake, Letchworth State Park Road, Mount Morris to Portageville · drive it
200Niagara Falls / Grand Island KOARead
14Wed Oct 14Niagara, NY to Cuyahoga Valley, OH
via I 190 South, Niagara Thruway, NY 5, South Park Avenue · drive it
215West Branch SP, Ravenna OHRead
15Thu Oct 15Cuyahoga Valley, OH to Indiana Dunes, IN
via Riverview Road through Cuyahoga Valley · drive it
345Dunewood CG, Indiana Dunes NPRead
16Fri Oct 16Indiana Dunes, IN to Devil's Lake, WI
via WI-113 and the Merrimac Ferry to Devil's Lake · drive it
233Devil's Lake SP (Quartzite CG), Baraboo WIRead
17Sat Oct 17Devil's Lake, WI to Sauk Centre, MN
via US 12, I 90, I 94 West, I 694 North · drive it
374Lake Carlos SP, Alexandria MNRead
18Sun Oct 18Alexandria, MN to Bismarck, ND
via MN 29, I 94 West, ND 1806 · drive it
324Fort Abraham Lincoln SP, Mandan NDRead
19Mon Oct 19Mandan, ND to Miles City, MT
via Theodore Roosevelt NP South Unit Scenic Loop Drive · drive it
311Miles City KOA Journey, 1 Palmer St (verify)Read
20Tue Oct 20Miles City, MT to Bozeman, MT
via MT-312 along the Yellowstone's north bank (Pompeys Pillar to Billings), Old US-10 frontage road, Reed Point to Big Timber via Greycliff · drive it
290Rental (Bozeman area; Mom joins)Read
21Wed Oct 21Bozeman, MT to Bozeman, MTRental (Bozeman area; with Mom)Read
22Thu Oct 22Bozeman, MT to Bozeman, MTRental (Bozeman area; with Mom)Day page
23Fri Oct 23Bozeman, MT to Gardiner, MT
via I 90 East, US 191 North, US 89 · drive it
78Airbnb rental, Gardiner (with Mom)Day page
24Sat Oct 24Gardiner, MT to Yellowstone loop > Gardiner, MT148Airbnb rental, Gardiner (with Mom)Read
25Sun Oct 25Gardiner, MT to Yellowstone (Lamar) > Bozeman, MT
via Lamar Valley on the Northeast Entrance Road · drive it
162Airbnb rental, Bozeman (with Mom)Read
26Mon Oct 26Bozeman, MT to Missoula, MT
via I 90 West · drive it
209Gibson Mansion B&b, Missoula (dogs: Verify)Read
27Tue Oct 27Missoula, MT to Sun Lakes, WA
via I 90 West, US 2 · drive it
302Sun Lakes-Dry Falls SPRead
28Wed Oct 28Sun Lakes, WA to Grand Coulee > Methow Valley, WA
via Coulee Corridor Scenic Byway (SR-155), Steamboat Rock to Grand Coulee Dam · drive it
145Pearrygin Lake SP, Winthrop (or Winthrop Inn)Read
29Thu Oct 29Winthrop, WA to North Cascades > Seattle, WA
via Whidbey Island and Deception Pass, North Cascades Highway (SR-20) · drive it
232Friends in SeattleRead
30Fri Oct 30Seattle, WA to Seattle, WAFriends in SeattleRead
TWR2 Pacific · Seattle WA to Los Angeles CA · about 2,490 mi
DayWhenWhereMiNight
31Sat Oct 31Seattle to San Juan Islands (Orcas), WA
via Anacortes-Orcas ferry and Mount Constitution, La Conner and SR-20 to Anacortes · drive it
122Moran SP, Orcas Island (Mountain Lake or Midway loop)Read
32Sun Nov 1Orcas Island to Deception Pass > Whidbey > Port Townsend, WA
via Orcas ferry, Deception Pass, Whidbey and the Keystone ferry · drive it
74Fort Worden SP, Port TownsendRead
33Mon Nov 2Port Townsend to Lake Crescent > Sol Duc, WA
via US-101 along Lake Crescent · drive it
91Sol Duc CG (primitive, first-come)Read
34Tue Nov 3Sol Duc to Cape Flattery > La Push > Hoh Rain Forest, WA
via La Push Road and Mora Road to Rialto Beach, SR-112 Strait of Juan de Fuca Highway to Cape Flattery, La Push Road to Second Beach · drive it
199Hoh Rain Forest CG (first-come)Read
35Wed Nov 4Hoh Rain Forest, WA to Seaside, OR
via US-101 coastal stretch past Ruby Beach, Astoria-Megler Bridge over the Columbia, Quinault South Shore Road to the Rain Forest Nature Trail, US-101 along Willapa Bay, SR-105 Cranberry Coast, Westport to Tokeland · drive it
249Coast River Inn, Seaside OR (rain night)Read
36Thu Nov 5Seaside, OR to Newport > Florence > Honeyman SP, OR
via Three Capes Scenic Route: Cape Meares and Oceanside, Ecola State Park to Ecola Point · drive it
175Jessie M. Honeyman SP, south of FlorenceRead
37Fri Nov 6Honeyman SP, OR to Dunes > Umpqua > Toketee > Union Creek > Fort Klamath, OR
via Three Capes Scenic Route: Sand Lake to Pacific City · drive it
223Jo's Motel, Fort Klamath ORRead
38Sat Nov 7Fort Klamath, OR to Crater Lake > North Umpqua > Roseburg, OR
via Rogue-Umpqua Scenic Byway (OR-230 / OR-138), Crater Lake south entrance to Rim Village (OR-62, Munson Valley Rd) · drive it
161Motel, Roseburg (rain night)Read
39Sun Nov 8Roseburg, OR to Bandon > Port Orford > Gold Beach > Brookings, OR
via Samuel H. Boardman Scenic Corridor, US-101 Port Orford to Gold Beach, Bandon Beach Loop Road · drive it
161Harris Beach SP (pet yurt)Read
40Mon Nov 9Brookings, OR to Crescent City, CA
via US 101, North Bank Road, CA 197, Redwood Highway · drive it
34Curly Redwood Lodge, Crescent CityRead
41Tue Nov 10Crescent City, CA to Howland Hill > Stout Grove > Drury Pkwy > Elk Prairie, CA
via Howland Hill Road through Jedediah Smith Redwoods, Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway · drive it
62Elk Prairie CG, Prairie Creek Redwoods SPRead
42Wed Nov 11Elk Prairie, CA to Trinidad > Ferndale > Mattole Rd (Lost Coast) > Rockefeller Forest > Burlington, CA
via Lost Coast: Wildcat Rd, Cape Mendocino, Petrolia, Honeydew, Bull Creek Flats · drive it
142Burlington CG, Humboldt Redwoods SPRead
43Thu Nov 12Sebastopol, CA217still hereDay page
44TodaySebastopol, CAafter tonight
Nov 14Salinas, CA flexible
via Steinbeck country: Fremont Peak, Salinas, Pacific Grove
dogs: partial
Nov 15 to 16Santa Barbara, CA flexible
via CA-1 Big Sur, Carmel to Pfeiffer, CA-1 Big Sur, Pfeiffer to San Simeon, CA-1 Cambria to Morro Bay
dogs: no
Nov 17Thousand Oaks, CA flexible
Nov 18 to 27Los Angeles, CA flexible
via Pacific Coast Highway, Point Mugu to Santa Monica
dogs: yes
TWR3 Southwest & Home · Los Angeles CA to home · about 5,630 mi
DayWhenWhereMiNight
Nov 28 to 29Death Valley National Park flexible
via Baker to Death Valley Junction: CA-127 through Shoshone
dogs: yes
Nov 30Zion National Park flexible
via Valley of Fire Highway
dogs: partial
Dec 1Bryce Canyon National Park flexible
via Bryce Canyon Scenic Drive to Rainbow Point, Scenic Byway 12 through Red Canyon, Zion-Mount Carmel Highway through the tunnel, US-89 up Long Valley
dogs: partial
Dec 2 to 3Scenic Byway 12 / Escalante float daydogs: yes
Dec 4Moab, UT flexible
via UT-24 through Capitol Reef and Caineville
dogs: no
Dec 5Kayenta, AZ flexible
Dec 6 to 7Grand Canyon (S Rim), AZ flexible
via Desert View Drive
dogs: partial
Dec 8Winslow, AZ flexible
via Sunset Crater-Wupatki Loop Road
dogs: yes
Dec 9 to 10Santa Fe, NM flexible
via Petrified Forest National Park Road
dogs: yes
Dec 11White Sands National Park flexible
via Billy the Kid Trail through Capitan, Lincoln and Ruidoso
dogs: yes
Dec 12Fort Davis, TX flexibledogs: no
Dec 12 to 14Great Sand Dunes NP maybe
Snow at 8,200 ft in mid-Nov, AND your float-day budget at Santa Fe.
+2 days
Dec 13 to 14Big Bend National Park float day
via FM-170 River Road, Presidio to Lajitas
dogs: no
Dec 15Presidio, TX flexible
via FM-170 River Road from Lajitas to the Big Hill
Dec 16Sonora, TX flexible
via TX-118 from Study Butte to Alpine
Dec 17Hill Country, TX flexible
Dec 18Houston area (a state park), TX flexible
via US-290 Wine Road through Stonewall and Johnson City
dogs: yes
Dec 19 to 20New Orleans, LA flexible
Dec 21Birmingham (a state park), AL flexible
Dec 22Tri-Cities (Kingsport), TN flexible
Dec 23Chambersburg, PA flexibledogs: yes

How the route has changed

  • Nov 13: added Salinas, CA, Santa Barbara, CA, Thousand Oaks, CA; dropped San Mateo, CA, Big Sur, CA, Yosemite Valley, CA, Bishop, CA.
  • Nov 12: added Crescent City, CA.
  • Nov 9: added Klamath, CA, Miranda, CA; dropped Jedediah Smith, CA, Lost Coast, CA, Mendocino, CA.
  • Nov 8: added Roseburg, OR, Jedediah Smith, CA; dropped Union Creek, OR, Bandon, OR, Redwood National Park.
  • Nov 6: added Fort Klamath, OR; dropped Washburne SP, OR.
  • Nov 6: added Honeyman State Park; dropped Tillamook, OR.
  • Nov 4: added Forks, WA, Seaside, OR; dropped Lake Quinault, WA, Ilwaco, WA.
  • Oct 30: added San Juan Islands (Orcas), WA, Port Townsend, WA, Port Angeles, WA, Yosemite Valley, CA, Houston area (a state park), TX, Birmingham (a state park), AL, Tri-Cities (Kingsport), TN, Chambersburg, PA; dropped Olympic National Park, Los Osos, CA, Carlsbad + Guadalupe, Houston area, TX, Birmingham / Meridian, AL, Great Smoky Mtns, TN, Blue Ridge Pkwy, NC, Blowing Rock, NC, Shenandoah National Park, Front Royal / north VA.
  • Oct 29: added Tillamook, OR, Washburne SP, OR, Sebastopol, CA, Bishop, CA; dropped Hood River, OR, Bend, OR, Point Reyes National Seashore, Lone Pine, CA.
  • Oct 26: added Missoula, MT; dropped Lolo, MT.
  • Oct 25: now 85 days.
  • Oct 22: added Bozeman, MT; dropped Belgrade, MT.
  • Oct 21: added Belgrade, MT, Gardiner, MT, Lolo, MT; dropped Paradise Valley, MT, Bozeman, MT, Spokane, WA.
  • Oct 20: added Miles City, MT, Bozeman, MT, Sun Lakes, WA, Methow Valley, WA, Lake Quinault, WA, Ilwaco, WA, Bend, OR, Union Creek, OR, Los Osos, CA, Winslow, AZ, Fort Davis, TX, Sonora, TX; dropped Little Bighorn, Yellowstone National Park, Seeley Lake, MT, Astoria, OR, Crater Lake National Park, Florence, OR, Pismo Beach, CA, Holbrook, AZ, Marfa, TX, Fort Stockton / Ozona, TX; now 84 days.
  • Oct 14: added Cuyahoga Valley National Park, Indiana Dunes, Baraboo, WI, Sauk Centre, MN, Bismarck, ND; dropped East Tawas, MI, Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Duluth, MN, Bemidji, MN, Theodore Roosevelt National Park, Bend, OR.
  • Oct 11: added Duluth, MN; dropped Catskills, NY, MN North Shore, Grand Marais, MN.
  • Oct 8: dropped Freeport, ME.

Fall color along the road

Every place on the route with a fall-color reputation, when it usually peaks, and what we expect to find when we get there. Each window says what it rests on: a 2026 report from the ground, a 2026 forecast, or a typical year where nobody has published a 2026 call. 21 of the 28 places here have a 2026 source. Windows last checked Sep 27. The same dots are on the map, colored for the day we pass.

Show all 28 places
PlacePeak window, and its sourceWhen we passStage
Stowe and the Mount Mansfield ridge
VT · Sugar maples
Sep 30 to Oct 92026 ground report, Sep 23Thu Oct 1peak color
White Mountains and the Kancamagus
NH · Maples, birch
Oct 1 to Oct 112026 ground report, Sep 25Fri Oct 2peak color
Western Maine, US-2
ME · Maples, birch
Sep 30 to Oct 82026 ground report, Sep 23Sat Oct 3peak color
Acadia and Mount Desert Island
ME · Maples, birch, blueberry barrens
Oct 8 to Oct 202026 ground report, Sep 23Sat Oct 3turning
Finger Lakes
NY · Maples, oaks, vineyards
Oct 12 to Oct 242026 ground report, Sep 23Mon Oct 12peak color
Niagara and the Lake Ontario shore
NY · Maples, oaks
Oct 15 to Oct 282026 ground report, Sep 23Tue Oct 13turning
Theodore Roosevelt, Little Missouri cottonwoods
ND · Cottonwoods, ash
Oct 1 to Oct 122026 forecastMon Oct 19past peak, fading
Paradise Valley and Livingston
MT · Cottonwoods along the Yellowstone
Sep 30 to Oct 132026 forecast, Sep 27Tue Oct 20past peak, fading
Bozeman and the Gallatin
MT · Cottonwoods, aspens
Sep 28 to Oct 122026 forecast, Sep 27Tue Oct 20past peak, fading
Yellowstone north entrance and the Gardner River
MT · Aspens, cottonwoods
Sep 25 to Oct 82026 forecast, Sep 27Fri Oct 23mostly down
Missoula and the Bitterroot
MT · Cottonwoods, then larch on the slopes
Oct 1 to Oct 182026 forecast, Sep 27Mon Oct 26past peak, fading
St. Regis to Lookout Pass, I-90
MT · Western larch (gold needles)
Oct 12 to Oct 282026 forecast, Sep 27Tue Oct 27peak color
Spokane and Coeur d'Alene
WA · Maples in town, larch and aspen in the hills
Oct 10 to Oct 25typical yearTue Oct 27past peak, fading
Seattle, the Arboretum and Japanese Garden
WA · Japanese maples, ginkgo
Oct 15 to Nov 5typical yearThu Oct 29peak color
Olympic Peninsula rain forests
WA · Bigleaf maple and vine maple in the rain forest
Oct 8 to Oct 302026 forecast, Sep 27Mon Nov 2past peak, fading
Astoria and the lower Columbia
OR · Bigleaf maple, alder
Oct 12 to Nov 2typical yearWed Nov 4past peak, fading
Oregon coast, Newport to Bandon
OR · Bigleaf maple in the coast range; the shore itself stays green
Oct 15 to Nov 52026 forecast, Sep 27Thu Nov 5peak color
Redwoods and the Avenue of the Giants
CA · Bigleaf maple under the redwoods
Oct 25 to Nov 152026 forecast, Sep 27Wed Nov 11peak color
Zion Canyon, the Virgin River
UT · Cottonwoods, boxelder, maples up the side canyons
Oct 28 to Nov 15typical yearNov 30mostly down
Bryce Canyon aspens
UT · Aspens at 8,000 to 9,000 ft
Sep 26 to Oct 92026 forecast, Sep 27Dec 1mostly down
Scenic Byway 12 and Calf Creek
UT · Cottonwoods in the canyons; aspens on Boulder Mountain go in September
Oct 20 to Nov 6typical yearDec 1mostly down
Grand Canyon South Rim
AZ · Gambel oak, a few aspens
Oct 8 to Oct 242026 forecast, Sep 27Dec 6 to 7mostly down
Santa Fe, Aspen Vista and the Rio Grande bosque
NM · Aspens above town in late September; bosque cottonwoods in November
Oct 28 to Nov 15typical yearDec 9 to 10mostly down
McKittrick Canyon, Guadalupe Mountains
TX · Bigtooth maples (no dogs on the trail)
Oct 24 to Nov 82026 forecast, Sep 27Dec 12mostly down
Big Bend, Rio Grande cottonwoods
TX · Cottonwoods at Rio Grande Village; the desert stays desert
Nov 10 to Nov 252026 forecast, Sep 27Dec 13 to 14mostly down
Lost Maples and the Hill Country
TX · Bigtooth maples
Nov 1 to Nov 18typical yearDec 17mostly down
Shenandoah, Skyline Drive
VA · Oaks, hickory, maples
Oct 13 to Oct 272026 forecast, Sep 27Dec 23mostly down
Front Royal and northern Virginia
VA · Oaks, tulip poplar
Oct 20 to Nov 32026 forecast, Sep 27Dec 23mostly down
The nationwide prediction map (SmokyMountains.com)

County by county, week by week, from NOAA history and the season's weather. Their estimate, embedded from smokymountains.com.

Every page the windows cite

Dark skies along the road

There are 152 certified dark-sky places in the United States, and all of them are on the map. These are the ones the route passes or comes close to, with the moon on the nights we're nearby. The moon figures are estimates for the evening, and for nights still ahead they cover the dates we expect to be there.

Show all 85 places
PlaceDesignationWhen we passMoon
AMC Maine Woods
ME
Dark Sky ParkSat Oct 3
a short detour
41%
dark until the moon rises around midnight
Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument
ME · national park unit
Dark Sky SanctuarySat Oct 3
a detour
41%
dark until the moon rises around midnight
Cherry Springs
PA
Dark Sky ParkTue Oct 13
a detour
13%
little or no moon
Fry Family Park
OH
Urban Night Sky PlaceWed Oct 14
on the route
21%
little or no moon
Geauga Observatory Park
OH
Dark Sky ParkWed Oct 14
on the route
21%
little or no moon
Beverley Shores
IN
Dark Sky CommunityThu Oct 15
on the route
30%
the moon sets in the evening
Dr. T.K. Lawless County Park
MI
Dark Sky ParkThu Oct 15
on the route
30%
the moon sets in the evening
Lake Hudson Recreation Area
MI
Dark Sky ParkThu Oct 15
on the route
30%
the moon sets in the evening
Potawatomi
IN
Dark Sky ParkThu Oct 15
a short detour
30%
the moon sets in the evening
Hawthorn Woods
IL
Dark Sky CommunityFri Oct 16
on the route
40%
the moon sets around midnight
Homer Glen
IL
Dark Sky CommunityFri Oct 16
on the route
40%
the moon sets around midnight
Middle Fork River Forest Preserve
IL
Dark Sky ParkFri Oct 16
a detour
40%
the moon sets around midnight
Palos Preserves
IL
Urban Night Sky PlaceFri Oct 16
on the route
40%
the moon sets around midnight
Medicine Rock State Park
MT
Dark Sky ParkMon Oct 19
a detour
71%
the moon sets around midnight
Lost Trail National Wildlife Refuge
MT
Dark Sky SanctuaryTue Oct 27
a detour
92%
the moon is up most of the night
Oregon Outback
OR
Dark Sky SanctuaryFri Nov 6
a detour
5%
little or no moon
Anza-Borrego Desert State Park
CA
Dark Sky ParkNov 28 to 29
a detour
64 to 74%
dark until the moon rises around midnight
Death Valley National Park
CA · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkNov 28 to 29
on the route
64 to 74%
dark until the moon rises around midnight
Joshua Tree National Park
CA · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkNov 28 to 29
a detour
64 to 74%
dark until the moon rises around midnight
Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument
AZ
Dark Sky ParkNov 30
a short detour
53%
dark until the moon rises around midnight
Pipe Spring National Monument
AZ · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkNov 30
on the route
53%
dark until the moon rises around midnight
Springdale
UT
Dark Sky CommunityNov 30
on the route
53%
dark until the moon rises around midnight
Thunder Mountain Pootsee Nightsky
AZ
Dark Sky CommunityNov 30
on the route
53%
dark until the moon rises around midnight
Zion National Park
UT · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkNov 30
on the route
53%
dark until the moon rises around midnight
Bryce Canyon National Park
UT · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkDec 1
on the route
43%
dark until the moon rises around midnight
Cedar Breaks National Monument
UT · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkDec 1
on the route
43%
dark until the moon rises around midnight
Kodachrome Basin State Park
UT
Dark Sky ParkDec 1
on the route
43%
dark until the moon rises around midnight
Arches National Park
UT · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkDec 4
on the route
15%
little or no moon
Black Canyon of the Gunnison
CO · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkDec 4
a detour
15%
little or no moon
Canyonlands
UT · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkDec 4
on the route
15%
little or no moon
Capitol Reef National Park
UT · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkDec 4
on the route
15%
little or no moon
Castle Valley
UT
Dark Sky CommunityDec 4
on the route
15%
little or no moon
Fremont Indian State Park
UT
Dark Sky ParkDec 4
a short detour
15%
little or no moon
Goblin Valley State Park
UT
Dark Sky ParkDec 4
on the route
15%
little or no moon
Helper
UT
Dark Sky CommunityDec 4
a short detour
15%
little or no moon
Moab
UT
Dark Sky CommunityDec 4
on the route
15%
little or no moon
Torrey
UT
Dark Sky CommunityDec 4
on the route
15%
little or no moon
Goosenecks State Park
UT
Dark Sky ParkDec 5
on the route
8%
little or no moon
Hovenweep National Monument
UT · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkDec 5
on the route
8%
little or no moon
Mesa Verde National Park
CO · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkDec 5
a short detour
8%
little or no moon
Natural Bridges National Monument
UT · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkDec 5
on the route
8%
little or no moon
Norwood
CO
Dark Sky CommunityDec 5
a short detour
8%
little or no moon
Nucla-Naturita
CO
Dark Sky CommunityDec 5
a short detour
8%
little or no moon
Rainbow Bridge
UT · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkDec 5
a short detour
8%
little or no moon
Ridgway
CO
Dark Sky CommunityDec 5
a detour
8%
little or no moon
Top of the Pines
CO
Dark Sky ParkDec 5
a detour
8%
little or no moon
Grand Canyon National Park
AZ · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkDec 6 to 7
on the route
1 to 3%
little or no moon
Big Park/Village of Oak Creek
AZ
Dark Sky CommunityDec 8
a short detour
0%
little or no moon
Camp Verde
AZ
Dark Sky CommunityDec 8
a short detour
0%
little or no moon
Cottonwood
AZ
Dark Sky CommunityDec 8
a short detour
0%
little or no moon
Flagstaff
AZ
Dark Sky CommunityDec 8
on the route
0%
little or no moon
Flagstaff Area National Monuments
AZ · national park unit
Dark Sky CommunityDec 8
on the route
0%
little or no moon
Sedona
AZ
Dark Sky CommunityDec 8
a short detour
0%
little or no moon
Chaco Culture National Historical Park
NM · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkDec 9 to 10
a short detour
1 to 5%
little or no moon
El Morro National Monument
NM · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkDec 9 to 10
on the route
1 to 5%
little or no moon
Fort Union National Monument
NM · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkDec 9 to 10
a short detour
1 to 5%
little or no moon
Petrified Forest National Park
AZ · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkDec 9 to 10
on the route
1 to 5%
little or no moon
Valle de Oro National Wildlife Refuge
NM
Urban Night Sky PlaceDec 9 to 10
on the route
1 to 5%
little or no moon
Valles Caldera National Preserve
NM · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkDec 9 to 10
on the route
1 to 5%
little or no moon
Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument
NM · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkDec 11
on the route
10%
little or no moon
Big Bend National Park
TX · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkDec 13 to 14
on the route
27 to 36%
the moon sets in the evening to the moon sets around midnight
Black Gap Wildlife Management Area
TX
Dark Sky SanctuaryDec 13 to 14
on the route
27 to 36%
the moon sets in the evening to the moon sets around midnight
Devil's River State Natural Area
TX
Dark Sky SanctuaryDec 16
a short detour
57%
the moon sets around midnight
Greater Big Bend
TX
Dark Sky ReserveDec 16
on the route
57%
the moon sets around midnight
Horseshoe Bay
TX
Dark Sky CommunityDec 17
on the route
68%
the moon sets around midnight
South Llano River State Park
TX
Dark Sky ParkDec 17
a short detour
68%
the moon sets around midnight
Bee Cave
TX
Dark Sky CommunityDec 18
on the route
77%
the moon is up most of the night
Blanco
TX
Dark Sky CommunityDec 18
on the route
77%
the moon is up most of the night
Dripping Springs
TX
Dark Sky CommunityDec 18
on the route
77%
the moon is up most of the night
Fredericksburg
TX
Dark Sky CommunityDec 18
on the route
77%
the moon is up most of the night
Jonestown
TX
Dark Sky CommunityDec 18
on the route
77%
the moon is up most of the night
Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park
TX · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkDec 18
on the route
77%
the moon is up most of the night
Milton Reimers Ranch Park
TX
Dark Sky ParkDec 18
on the route
77%
the moon is up most of the night
UBarU Camp and Retreat Center
TX
Dark Sky ParkDec 18
on the route
77%
the moon is up most of the night
Wimberley Valley
TX
Dark Sky CommunityDec 18
on the route
77%
the moon is up most of the night
Mayland Earth to Sky Park and Bare Dark Sky Observatory
NC
Dark Sky ParkDec 22
a short detour
99%
the moon is up most of the night
Obed Wild and Scenic River
TN · national park unit
Dark Sky ParkDec 22
on the route
99%
the moon is up most of the night
Pickett Civilian Conservation Corps Memorial State Park
TN
Dark Sky ParkDec 22
a short detour
99%
the moon is up most of the night
Pisgah Astronomical Research Institute
NC
Dark Sky ParkDec 22
a detour
99%
the moon is up most of the night
James River State Park
VA
Dark Sky ParkDec 23
a short detour
100%
the moon is up most of the night
Natural Bridge State Park
VA
Dark Sky ParkDec 23
on the route
100%
the moon is up most of the night
Rappahannock County Park
VA
Dark Sky ParkDec 23
on the route
100%
the moon is up most of the night
Sky Meadows State Park
VA
Dark Sky ParkDec 23
on the route
100%
the moon is up most of the night
Staunton River State Park
VA
Dark Sky ParkDec 23
a detour
100%
the moon is up most of the night
Watoga State Park
WV
Dark Sky ParkDec 23
a short detour
100%
the moon is up most of the night
Where the list comes from

DarkSky International certifies these places. Its own list can't be read by a program, so this one is merged from copies of it plus news of recent certifications. It is complete through 2024 and partial for 2025 and 2026, so check DarkSky before planning around one.

The night sky at each stop

The moon at each stop: how much of it is lit, when it rises and sets, and how many hours of full darkness are left once twilight ends and the moon is down. Times are local and rounded to 15 minutes. For nights still ahead, the figures cover the dates we expect to be there.

Show every stop (56)
WhenWhereMoonMoonriseMoonsetFull darkness
Thu Oct 1Friends' driveway, Stowe (rooftop tent)60 to 70% lit
waning
9:15 pmduring the dayabout 1 hour
Dark until the moon rises
Fri Oct 2Dolly Copp CG, WMNF50 to 60% lit
waning
10:15 pmduring the dayabout 2 hours
Dark until the moon rises
Sat Oct 3Blackwoods CG, Acadia (NPS)40 to 50% lit
waning
11:15 pmduring the dayabout 3.5 hours
Dark until the moon rises
Sun Oct 4Seawall CG, Acadia (NPS)30 to 40% lit
waning
12:30 amduring the dayabout 5 hours
Dark until the moon rises
Mon Oct 12Robert H. Treman SP, Ithaca0 to 10% lit
waxing
during the day7 pmabout 9.5 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
Tue Oct 13Niagara Falls / Grand Island KOA10 to 20% lit
waxing
during the day7:45 pmabout 9.5 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
Wed Oct 14West Branch SP, Ravenna OH10 to 20% lit
waxing
before noon8:45 pmabout 9.5 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
Thu Oct 15Dunewood CG, Indiana Dunes NP20 to 30% lit
waxing
during the day8:45 pmabout 8.5 hours
Dark after the moon sets
Fri Oct 16Devil's Lake SP (Quartzite CG), Baraboo WI30 to 40% lit
waxing
during the day9:45 pmabout 8 hours
Dark after the moon sets
Sat Oct 17Lake Carlos SP, Alexandria MN40 to 50% lit
waxing
during the day11 pmabout 7 hours
Dark after the moon sets
Sun Oct 18Fort Abraham Lincoln SP, Mandan ND50 to 60% lit
waxing
during the day12:30 amabout 6 hours
Dark after the moon sets
Mon Oct 19Miles City KOA Journey, 1 Palmer St (verify)60 to 70% lit
waxing
during the day1 amabout 4.5 hours
Dark after the moon sets
Tue Oct 20 to Thu Oct 22Rental (Bozeman area; Mom joins)70 to 90% lit
waxing
during the day2:30 am to 5 am1.5 to 3.5 hours
Dark after the moon sets
Fri Oct 23 to Sat Oct 24Airbnb rental, Gardiner (with Mom)90 to 100% lit
waxing
during the day6 am to 7:15 amnone
The moon is up most of the night
Sun Oct 25Airbnb rental, Bozeman (with Mom)90 to 100% lit
waning
during the dayduring the daynone
The moon is up most of the night
Mon Oct 26Gibson Mansion B&b, Missoula (dogs: Verify)90 to 100% lit
waning
during the dayduring the daynone
The moon is up most of the night
Tue Oct 27Sun Lakes-Dry Falls SP90 to 100% lit
waning
6:15 pmduring the daynone
The moon is up most of the night
Wed Oct 28Pearrygin Lake SP, Winthrop (or Winthrop Inn)80 to 90% lit
waning
7 pmafter noonnone
Dark until the moon rises
Thu Oct 29 to Fri Oct 30Friends in Seattle60 to 80% lit
waning
8:15 pm to 9:30 pmduring the day0.5 to 2 hours
Dark until the moon rises
Sat Oct 31Moran SP, Orcas Island (Mountain Lake or Midway loop)50 to 60% lit
waning
11 pmduring the dayabout 3.5 hours
Dark until the moon rises
Sun Nov 1Fort Worden SP, Port Townsend40 to 50% lit
waning
11:15 pmduring the dayabout 4.5 hours
Dark until the moon rises
Mon Nov 2Sol Duc CG (primitive, first-come)30 to 40% lit
waning
12:45 amduring the dayabout 6 hours
Dark until the moon rises
Tue Nov 3Hoh Rain Forest CG (first-come)20 to 30% lit
waning
2 amduring the dayabout 7.5 hours
Dark until the moon rises
Wed Nov 4Coast River Inn, Seaside OR (rain night)10 to 20% lit
waning
3:15 amduring the dayabout 8.5 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
Thu Nov 5Jessie M. Honeyman SP, south of Florence0 to 10% lit
waning
4:15 amduring the dayabout 10 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
Fri Nov 6Jo's Motel, Fort Klamath OR0 to 10% lit
waning
5:15 amduring the dayabout 10.5 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
Sat Nov 7Motel, Roseburg (rain night)0 to 10% lit
waning
6:30 amduring the dayabout 10.5 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
Sun Nov 8Harris Beach SP (pet yurt)0 to 10% lit
waxing
during the dayduring the dayabout 11 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
Mon Nov 9Curly Redwood Lodge, Crescent City0 to 10% lit
waxing
during the dayduring the dayabout 11 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
Tue Nov 10Elk Prairie CG, Prairie Creek Redwoods SP0 to 10% lit
waxing
during the day5:30 pmabout 11 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
Wed Nov 11Burlington CG, Humboldt Redwoods SP0 to 10% lit
waxing
during the day6:30 pmabout 11 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
Nov 14Salinas, CA20 to 30% lit
waxing
before noon9:15 pmabout 8 hours
Dark after the moon sets
Nov 15 to 16Santa Barbara, CA30 to 50% lit
waxing
during the day10:15 pm to 11:15 pm6 to 7 hours
Dark after the moon sets
Nov 17Thousand Oaks, CA50 to 60% lit
waxing
during the day12:15 amabout 5 hours
Dark after the moon sets
Nov 18 to 27Los Angeles, CA60 to 100% lit
near full
5:45 pm to 8:15 pm (in daylight some nights)1 am to 5:30 am (in daylight some nights)0 to 4 hours
The moon is up most of the night
Nov 28 to 29Death Valley National Park60 to 80% lit
waning
9:15 pm to 10:15 pmduring the day3 to 4.5 hours
Dark until the moon rises
Nov 30Zion National Park40 to 50% lit
waning
12:15 amduring the dayabout 5.5 hours
Dark until the moon rises
Dec 1Bryce Canyon National Park30 to 40% lit
waning
1:15 amduring the dayabout 6.5 hours
Dark until the moon rises
Dec 2 to 3Scenic Byway 12 / Escalante20 to 30% lit
waning
2:15 am to 3:15 amduring the day7.5 to 8.5 hours
Dark until the moon rises
Dec 4Moab, UT10 to 20% lit
waning
4:15 amduring the dayabout 9.5 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
Dec 5Kayenta, AZ0 to 10% lit
waning
5:15 amduring the dayabout 10.5 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
Dec 6 to 7Grand Canyon (S Rim), AZ0 to 10% lit
waning
6:30 am to 7:30 amduring the dayabout 11 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
Dec 8Winslow, AZ0 to 10% lit
waxing
during the dayduring the dayabout 11 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
Dec 9 to 10Santa Fe, NM0 to 10% lit
waxing
during the day5:15 pm to 6:15 pmabout 11 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
Dec 11White Sands National Park0 to 10% lit
waxing
during the day7:15 pmabout 10 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
Dec 12Fort Davis, TX10 to 20% lit
waxing
during the day9:15 pmabout 9 hours
Little or no moon: a dark sky
Dec 13 to 14Big Bend National Park20 to 40% lit
waxing
during the day10 pm to 11 pm7 to 8 hours
Dark after the moon sets
Dec 15Presidio, TX40 to 50% lit
waxing
during the day12 amabout 6.5 hours
Dark after the moon sets
Dec 16Sonora, TX50 to 60% lit
waxing
during the day12:45 amabout 5.5 hours
Dark after the moon sets
Dec 17Hill Country, TX60 to 70% lit
waxing
during the day1:30 amabout 4.5 hours
Dark after the moon sets
Dec 18Houston area (a state park), TX70 to 80% lit
waxing
during the day2:15 amabout 3.5 hours
Dark after the moon sets
Dec 19 to 20New Orleans, LA80 to 90% lit
waxing
during the day3 am to 4:15 am1 to 2.5 hours
Dark after the moon sets
Dec 21Birmingham (a state park), AL90 to 100% lit
waxing
during the day5:15 amnone
The moon is up most of the night
Dec 22Tri-Cities (Kingsport), TN90 to 100% lit
waxing
during the day7:30 amnone
The moon is up most of the night
Dec 23Chambersburg, PA90 to 100% lit
waning
during the dayduring the daynone
The moon is up most of the night
TodaySebastopol, CA20 to 30% lit
waxing
during the day8:15 pmabout 9 hours
Dark after the moon sets

Steinbeck's route, 1960

The dashed line on the map is Steinbeck's own loop, rebuilt from the book and later research. It's approximate: a literary route, not a GPS record. More on that.