Travels with Rhea

Can your dog actually hike here?

Can dogs hike in Bryce Canyon National Park?

Partial Partly. Some trails and areas, not all.

Listen: the history of Bryce Canyon National Park

About 4 minutes, in five chapters. Tap a paragraph to start there.

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Walk to the rim and look down. In eighteen seventy-two a government geologist, Grove Karl Gilbert, wrote in his notebook that it was "a perfect wilderness of red pinnacles, the stunningest thing out of a picture". The rim sits about eight thousand feet above the sea. This is Bryce Canyon National Park.

Before the park

People have lived on this high country, the Colorado Plateau, for about twelve thousand years. From about the year two hundred to twelve hundred, Fremont people lived to the north and west, and Ancestral Puebloans to the south and east. From about twelve hundred, Paiute people used this plateau to hunt and gather in season, without settling on it for good.

The Park Service names five peoples with ties to this place: the Southern Paiute, the Hopi, the Zuni, the Ute and the Navajo. The Paiute Indian Tribe of Utah is five bands, governed from Cedar City. In nineteen fifty-four the federal government ended its recognition of the Utah Paiutes as a tribe, and in nineteen eighty Congress restored it. The Kaibab Band of Paiute Indians governs from its tribal offices in Fredonia, Arizona.

In nineteen thirty-six an elderly Paiute man living on the Kaibab Reservation told the park's naturalist that before there were Indians, the Legend People lived here. They did something bad, he said, and Coyote turned them all into rocks, "some standing in rows, some sitting down, some holding onto others".

Making the park

Ebenezer Bryce brought his family to a Mormon farm settlement in the valley below the rim for his wife's fragile health. Between eighteen seventy-eight and eighteen eighty, he and his neighbors dug a seven-mile irrigation ditch and a road up to timber and firewood, and locals called the bowl where the road ended Bryce's Canyon. The story goes that Bryce called it "a hell of a place to lose a cow". The family left for Arizona in eighteen eighty.

In nineteen fifteen a ranger insisted that his new Forest Service supervisor, J. W. Humphrey, see the rim, and Humphrey said "it was sundown before I could be dragged from the canyon view". The next year he found fifty dollars for a road to it.

In nineteen twenty-three President Harding proclaimed Bryce Canyon National Monument, protected land still run by the Forest Service. The homesteaders who kept the first lodge on the rim sold it that year to a company owned by the Union Pacific railroad. A year later Congress passed a law for a "Utah National Park" here, but only once every acre inside it belonged to the federal government. In nineteen twenty-seven the railroad agreed to hand over its land at the rim, and Utah's governor, George Dern, agreed to trade away the state's piece. In February of nineteen twenty-eight Congress renamed it Bryce Canyon National Park, and that September the Park Service took charge.

One story

In September of nineteen thirty, a homesteader put the whole park in doubt. Marion Frost lived in Tropic, a farm town in the valley below the rim, and he claimed forty acres of unsurveyed land inside the park's boundary. Park surveyors told him to move his house and his fence off the land.

The law of nineteen twenty-four required every acre inside the park to be federal. If Frost's claim stood, everything the Park Service had done since taking charge in nineteen twenty-eight was illegal.

The answer came from Washington in January of nineteen thirty-one. The General Land Office ruled that neither Frost nor the Jolley family, who had bought the land from him, held a valid claim, and that there was no right of appeal. Frost lost the land, and the park was safe. Forty acres had held up a national park.

Today

Close to two million visits came in two thousand twenty-five, under a new count that tallies each shuttle rider once instead of every time they board. In two thousand nineteen the park was certified an International Dark Sky Park.

Federal staff cuts reached Bryce in February of two thousand twenty-five, when at least two of its rangers were fired. That June the park asked the public about horseback riding, which it said "has grown significantly over the past ten years".

Utah prairie dogs, protected under the Endangered Species Act, have been brought back, and more than six hundred now live here in ten colonies, called towns. Look for them in the meadows along the road near the visitor center. From October to late March they stay underground, so in the cold months look for their mounds instead. This is Bryce Canyon National Park.

Sources

Open

Before the park

Making the park

One story

Today

Best for dogs

Dogs

Dogs get one paved stretch of the rim and every drive-up overlook, but no trail into the hoodoos.

Where dogs can go

The paved Rim Trail between Sunrise and Sunset Points, plus the Sunrise, Sunset, Inspiration and Bryce Point overlooks.

What we do instead

Grand Staircase-Escalante the next day, federal land where she can hike to Calf Creek Falls.

Best for dogs

TrailDistance and shapeSurface and shadeLeash ruleWhy for a big dogThe hazard
Rim Trail, Sunset Point to Sunrise PointHalf a mile each way, one mile out and back, about thirty-four to forty feet of climbConcrete, typically ninety-seven inches wide, the only paved stretch of the Rim Trail; restrooms all year at Sunset Point, and water all year at the Sunset Point restroom"Pets must be on a leash at all times; the leash must be no longer than six feet."The one walk along the rim itself, wide and paved, with the whole bowl of spires below herThe rim is unfenced and crumbly: "Stay on designated trails and away from cliff edges." In sun, check the surface temperature first: if you cannot hold the back of your hand on it for five seconds, it is too hot for her paws
Shared Use Path, from the shuttle station outside the park to Inspiration PointAbout five miles one way, out and back, climbing overall as it heads south past the visitor center, Sunrise Point, the lodge and Sunset PointPaved, mostly asphalt with some concrete; a ten-foot tread, never steeper than five percentPets must be leashed, on six feet or less; the pet rule allows the path between the park entrance and Inspiration PointThe longest legal walk in the park, enough miles to tire a big dogBicycles, skaters, scooters and skiers share it. Dark asphalt holds heat: at an air temperature of eighty-six degrees, asphalt can reach one hundred thirty-five, so test the surface temperature with your hand before a midday walk
Paved overlooks: Sunset, Sunrise, Inspiration and Bryce PointsShort walks from the parking lots: Sunset Point is level and about four hundred ninety-four feet in; Bryce Point is two hundred seventy feet inPaved; Bryce Point "may be icy in winter"Leashed, six feet or less, on every paved viewpoint except Piracy PointThe big views with no trail at all; dogs cannot ride the shuttle, so drive from one to the nextThe unpaved extension past Sunrise Point and the path up to the upper Inspiration overlook are off limits. In winter, traction devices are strongly recommended in all areas of the park
Rainbow Point and the other overlooks at the far end of the eighteen-mile roadShort stops at paved viewpointsPavedLeashed, six feet or less; paved viewpoints are open to petsThe highest ground in the park, up to nine thousand one hundred fifteen feet, for a cold-weather leg stretchThin air: about seventy percent of the oxygen you may be used to. From October to May it falls below freezing nearly every night, and a November day averages a high of forty-five and a low of twenty-three. Sharp crusts of snow, jagged ice and de-icing salts can hurt her paw pads, and the salts are toxic if she licks them

Skip: Navajo Loop from Sunset Point, one point three miles with five hundred fifteen feet of climb, and Queen's Garden from Sunrise Point are the tempting ones, and both are closed to dogs, along with the two combined, the Fairyland Loop, Mossy Cave, the Bristlecone Loop and every unpaved stretch of the Rim Trail. Pets are not allowed on any trail, on unpaved viewpoints such as Piracy Point, or on the shuttle bus.

Nearby: Dixie National Forest, next door, says "Yes, dogs are welcome," on a leash at all campgrounds, picnic areas and trailheads. Its Red Canyon, on Highway Twelve about three and a half miles east of the junction with U.S. Route Eighty-Nine, on the way to the park, has the Pink Ledges, Hoodoo, Birdseye and Golden Wall trails, and a visitor center with water and flush toilets. The Buckhorn Trail joins the Golden Wall Trail for a five-mile round trip. The paved Shared Use Path starts in Red Canyon and runs eighteen miles to Inspiration Point.

From the park's own pages; we correct it once we've walked it.

UT. On our route: Dec 1. Rules change: check the park's own pet page before you go. Rhea is never boarded or kenneled; where she can't go, we find somewhere she can.

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Every park on the trip